Pasang Lhamu Chuli 7350m(Josamba Cho-Aui)
Pasang Lhamu Chuli is one of five new peaks opened for
foreign expedition in June 1995.
Location of this peak is (28 04 24N,86 36 53E) about 5 Kilometer west-southwest
of Cho-Oyu and height of this peak is 7350m. It was not easy for us to
identity the peak of this mysterious name. Soon we learned it is nothing
but a peak that has been known as Cho-Aui and already had been climbed
from Tibetan side in 1986 by Himalaya Association of Japan's expedition.
In postmonsoon season of last year,a Korean expedition team tried from
Nepalese side but they were forced to retreat at height of 6900m. This
peak also has other two different name ;Josamba 1 and Nangpai Gosum 1.
Our expedition in 1996, sponsored by Osaka Alpine Club aimed to this peak
from the south or the east ridge. On September 6th,the first flight,after
irritated waiting in Kathmandu by prolonged monsoon weather of that year,brought
us to Shangboche and we stayed for three days at Everest View Hotel where
Mr.Miyahara is President. Then we proceeded to Thame village,where we spent
more 7 days at our sirder Ang Phurba's lodge for rest and acclimatization.
Started for Chhule on September 16th, and settled basecamp(5400m) on the
central moraine of Nampa La Glacier. Climbing gears and foods about 1.5
tons already had been carried up to BC by a few Sherpas and local porters
prior to our arrival, As the nearest couloir, which directly lead to southern
col (5720m), and Korean couloir up to 6650m col. were both washed by incessant
big avlanches, we decided to change our route without hesitation to the
We placed advanced basecamp at 5600m, near the foot of west ridge Nampa