Pasang Lhamu Chuli 7350m(Josamba Cho-Aui) No.2

On September 23rd,, We began to make long route to get to 6730m peak. After a week, October 1st , we pitched Camp‡T(6700m) on the ridge passed over this peak.
Then,a temporary Camp‡Uwas placed near the second col(6250m) on October 9th.
Next 3 days were spent to put 7 pitches of fixed@rope on knife-edged ridge, so called
It became the most difficult stage of expedition.
On October 13th,first summit push was done from the temporary Camp‡U, but failed mainly by lack of fixedrope and snowbars. All six members including 4 climbing Sherpa got down to BC for rest and supply.
The second stage of climbing began on October 17th. Next day,after struggling long traverse, we could place new camp‡Uon the snow hump just behind Triangular Rock Peak(7100m).
As two climbing Sherpa returned in bad physical condition on the way,remainning three occupied Camp‡U. October 19th ,it was splendidly cleared up and temperature fell to -20C. Proposed direct ridge route to the summit was abandoned becouse of its difficulty in passing through overhanging rocks.
However,We could find an alternative route,traversing to right side. It seemed to be the most feasible route to avoid rock obstacles and get to summit ridge.
Three members,M.Taniguchi,T.Kitamura and a Sherpa left Camp‡Uat 7:00 am. After a few pitches climbing up steep snow ridge,Sherpa got out of the party with too much fatigue. Then we traversed about 300m to the right and were lucky enough to got to the last summit ridge,from where direct climbing up more three pitches lead us to the real summit. We reached the top at noon.
The highest point was so small an ice pyramid as we could only hold it with arms, not stand on it. We enjoyed unexpected close view of Mt.Everest and lot of high peaks around us.


Expedition name:Osaka Alpine Club Pasang Lhamu Chuli Expedition '96 Autumn
Members : Tamotsu Ohnishi(leader),Mamoru Taniguchi,Keiko Nishihira,

Takehiko Yanagihara,Toshiyuki Kitamura.

Sherpa : Ang Phurba Sherpa(Sirder)and three others.