Pasang Lhamu Chuli 7350m(Josamba Cho-Aui) No.2
On September 23rd,, We began to make long route to get
to 6730m peak. After a week, October 1st , we pitched CampT(6700m) on
the ridge passed over this peak.
Then,a temporary CampUwas placed near the second col(6250m) on October
Next 3 days were spent to put 7 pitches of fixed@rope on knife-edged ridge,
It became the most difficult stage of expedition.
On October 13th,first summit push was done from the temporary CampU, but
failed mainly by lack of fixedrope and snowbars. All six members including
4 climbing Sherpa got down to BC for rest and supply.
The second stage of climbing began on October 17th. Next day,after struggling
long traverse, we could place new campUon the snow hump just behind Triangular
As two climbing Sherpa returned in bad physical condition on the way,remainning
three occupied CampU. October 19th ,it was splendidly cleared up and temperature
fell to -20C. Proposed direct ridge route to the summit was abandoned becouse
of its difficulty in passing through overhanging rocks.
However,We could find an alternative route,traversing to right side. It
seemed to be the most feasible route to avoid rock obstacles and get to
Three members,M.Taniguchi,T.Kitamura and a Sherpa left CampUat 7:00 am.
After a few pitches climbing up steep snow ridge,Sherpa got out of the
party with too much fatigue. Then we traversed about 300m to the right
and were lucky enough to got to the last summit ridge,from where direct
climbing up more three pitches lead us to the real summit. We reached the
top at noon.
The highest point was so small an ice pyramid as we could only hold it
with arms, not stand on it. We enjoyed unexpected close view of Mt.Everest
and lot of high peaks around us.
Expedition name:Osaka Alpine Club
Pasang Lhamu Chuli Expedition '96 Autumn
Members : Tamotsu Ohnishi(leader),Mamoru Taniguchi,Keiko Nishihira,
Takehiko Yanagihara,Toshiyuki Kitamura.
Sherpa : Ang Phurba Sherpa(Sirder)and